1. Introduction
Nawang Gombu Sherpa was a legendary Indian mountaineer and Sherpa climbing instructor who made history as the first person in the world to summit Mount Everest twice.
He first reached the summit of Everest in 1963, climbing with American mountaineer Jim Whittaker as part of the American Everest expedition. Two years later, in 1965, Gombu climbed Everest again as a member of the successful Indian Everest Expedition led by Captain M. S. Kohli. His second ascent made him the first person to reach the summit of Everest twice.
Gombu was also one of the earliest instructors at the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute (HMI), Darjeeling, founded in 1954. He later became its Director of Field Training and spent more than four decades helping train generations of Indian mountaineers.
The Government of India honoured him with the Padma Shri in 1964 and the Padma Bhushan in 1965, both in the field of Sports. The official Padma Awards database records his 1965 Padma Bhushan as a Sports award associated with West Bengal.
2. Quick Facts
| Detail | Information |
|---|---|
| Full Name | Nawang Gombu Sherpa |
| Name commonly used | Nawang Gombu |
| Native/Original Name | Nawang Gombu |
| Date of Birth | 1 May 1936* |
| Place of Birth | Kharta, Tibet* |
| Nationality | Indian |
| Profession | Mountaineer, Sherpa climbing guide and instructor |
| Field of Achievement | Mountaineering and adventure sports |
| Famous For | First person to climb Mount Everest twice |
| Years Active | Mainly 1950s–1990s |
| Major Institution | Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, Darjeeling |
| Major Award | Padma Bhushan |
| Padma Bhushan Year | 1965 |
| Award Category | Sports |
| Date of Death | 24 April 2011 |
| Place of Death | Darjeeling, West Bengal, India |
| Uncle | Tenzing Norgay |
*The birth details require a source note. Wikidata’s record, citing Encyclopaedia Britannica, gives 1 May 1936 and Kharta; the Himalayan Club obituary gives 1935 and describes his birthplace as southern Tibet near Rongbuk.
3. Award Information
Padma Bhushan – 1965
Award Name
Padma Bhushan
The Padma Bhushan is one of India’s major civilian honours.
Award Category
Sports
The official Government of India’s Padma Awards database lists:
Shri Nawang Gombu — Padma Bhushan (1965) — Sports — West Bengal.
Award Year
1965
Presented By
The award was conferred by the President of India. The official Gazette notification states that the President was pleased to make the Padma awards.
Official Announcement
The official Gazette notification was published on 23 June 1965.
It lists:
“Shri Nawang Gombu, Member, Indian Everest Expedition, 1965.”
along with Lieutenant Commander Mohan Singh Kohli and Sonam Gyatso as Padma Bhushan awardees.
Date of Ceremony
The official notification establishes the award announcement date, but the sources consulted do not establish a sufficiently reliable exact date for the physical presentation ceremony. Therefore, it is safer for a blog to state “Awarded in 1965” rather than give an unverified ceremony date.
Citation / Official Reason
The official Gazette identifies Gombu as a member of the Indian Everest Expedition, 1965. The Padma Awards database classifies his award under Sports.
The award came in the context of his outstanding mountaineering achievements, particularly his participation in the successful 1965 Indian Everest Expedition and his historic second ascent of Mount Everest.
Previous Recipients
Nawang Gombu had already received the Padma Shri in 1964, also in Sports. The official 1964 Padma record describes him as an Instructor, Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, Darjeeling.
Other 1965 Padma Bhushan Mountaineers
Gombu was not the only mountaineer honoured in 1965. The official list also includes:
- Mohan Singh Kohli – Sports
- Sonam Gyatso – Sports
Both were members of the successful 1965 Indian Everest Expedition.
4. Why Did Nawang Gombu Receive the Award?
Nawang Gombu received the Padma Bhushan in 1965 in the Sports category in recognition of his exceptional achievements in mountaineering.
His most important achievement was becoming the first person to climb Mount Everest twice.
His first Everest summit came in 1963 with American climber Jim Whittaker. In 1965, Gombu returned to Everest with the Indian expedition and reached the summit again with Captain A. S. Cheema. This historic achievement established him as one of the great Himalayan mountaineers of his generation.
The 1965 Indian expedition itself was a landmark event for India: several members reached Everest’s summit, while Gombu became the first person anywhere to accomplish two Everest ascents. The Government’s award notification specifically identifies him as a member of that expedition.
5. Early Life
Nawang Gombu was born in the Himalayan region of Tibet and spent part of his childhood in the Khumbu region near Mount Everest.
The Himalayan Club records that he was born in southern Tibet near the famous Rongbuk Monastery. He remembered his birthplace as Donak, meaning “black rock” in Tibetan. His parents later moved with the family to Khumjung in Nepal, where Gombu spent part of his childhood.
Gombu was the nephew of the legendary Everest climber Tenzing Norgay. His connection with Tenzing played an important role in introducing him to the world of Himalayan mountaineering.
As a young boy, Gombu briefly attended Rongbuk Monastery. He eventually left the monastery and crossed into Nepal, beginning a life that would become closely connected with the Himalayan mountains.
6. Education and Training
Nawang Gombu did not follow a conventional academic education.
His education was closely connected with the mountains. He briefly studied at Rongbuk Monastery as a child.
His real professional training came through practical mountaineering experience.
In 1954, after the establishment of the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute in Darjeeling, Gombu was among the Sherpa instructors selected for specialised training in Switzerland. The early instructors became an important foundation for HMI’s mountaineering programme.
This combination of traditional Himalayan knowledge and modern mountaineering training helped Gombu become an exceptional climbing instructor.
7. Career Journey
Beginning as a High-Altitude Porter
Gombu began his climbing career as a high-altitude porter and gradually developed into an experienced climbing member of major Himalayan expeditions.
He participated in the 1953 British Everest Expedition, the expedition in which his uncle Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary reached the summit.
Gombu was the youngest climbing Sherpa on the 1953 team. He carried loads to the South Col and demonstrated remarkable ability at high altitude. For his performance, he received the Tiger Badge of the Himalayan Club.
Himalayan Mountaineering Institute
The Himalayan Mountaineering Institute was established in Darjeeling in 1954. Gombu became one of its original instructors.
He remained closely associated with the institute for more than four decades. In 1976, he succeeded Tenzing Norgay as Director of Field Training and later served as an adviser.
American Everest Expedition – 1963
In 1963, Gombu joined the American Everest Expedition.
On 1 May 1963, he and American climber Jim Whittaker reached the summit of Mount Everest.
Whittaker became the first American to summit Everest, while Gombu became one of the key Sherpa climbers in the historic ascent.
Indian Everest Expedition – 1965
Gombu returned to Everest in 1965 as a member of India’s successful Everest expedition led by Captain M. S. Kohli.
On 20 May 1965, Gombu and Captain A. S. Cheema reached the summit.
This made Gombu the first person in the world to summit Mount Everest twice.
Later Career
Gombu continued teaching mountaineering at HMI.
He also spent periods in the United States working with the Rainier climbing community and sharing his Himalayan climbing expertise. He later returned to Darjeeling and continued his association with HMI.
8. Major Achievements
1. First person to climb Mount Everest twice
This remains Nawang Gombu’s most famous achievement.
He climbed Everest in:
- 1963 – with the American expedition and Jim Whittaker
- 1965 – with the Indian Everest Expedition
He became the first person to summit Everest twice.
2. Participant in the 1953 Everest Expedition
At a very young age, Gombu was part of the expedition that ultimately placed Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary on the summit of Everest.
He reached the South Col while carrying heavy loads.
3. First Indian to summit Nanda Devi
In 1964, Gombu became the first Indian to reach the summit of Nanda Devi, India’s highest mountain located wholly within the country.
4. Early instructor at HMI
He was one of the original instructors at the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute and later became Director of Field Training.
5. International climbing achievements
His climbing career included expeditions involving peaks such as:
- Mount Everest
- Nanda Devi
- Saser Kangri
- Cho Oyu
- Rathong
- Sakang Peak
The Himalayan Mountaineering Institute records several of these achievements.
9. Contribution to the Nation
Nawang Gombu’s contribution to India extended beyond climbing mountains.
Development of Indian mountaineering
He helped establish India as a serious mountaineering nation during the 1950s and 1960s.
Training young climbers
As an instructor and later Director of Field Training at HMI, he trained generations of Indian mountaineers. The Himalayan Club notes that he taught thousands of Indians basic and advanced climbing skills during more than 40 years of service.
Promoting adventure sports
His achievements demonstrated that Indian and Himalayan climbers could compete at the highest level of international mountaineering.
Supporting the Sherpa community
In his later years, Gombu worked for the welfare of the Sherpa community and served as president of the Sherpa Buddhist Association in Darjeeling.
International representation of India
His Everest achievements brought international attention to Indian mountaineering. His meetings with President John F. Kennedy and other international figures further increased his global recognition.
10. Other Awards and Honours
Nawang Gombu received numerous national and international honours.
Major honours include:
| Year | Award / Honour |
| 1953 | Tiger Badge / Tiger Medal of the Himalayan Club |
| 1953 | Queen Elizabeth II Coronation Medal |
| 1963 | Hubbard Medal, National Geographic Society |
| 1964 | Padma Shri |
| 1965 | Padma Bhushan |
| 1966 | Indian Mountaineering Foundation Gold Medal |
| 1967 | Arjuna Award |
| 2006 | Tenzing Norgay National Adventure Award – Lifetime Achievement |
The Himalayan Club and Himalayan Mountaineering Institute document many of these honours.
Hubbard Medal
After his successful 1963 Everest climb, Gombu was associated with the presentation of the Hubbard Medal of the National Geographic Society at the White House on 8 July 1963. The John F. Kennedy Presidential Library records the event and lists Gombu among the people connected with the presentation.
Tenzing Norgay National Adventure Award
In 2006, Gombu received the Tenzing Norgay National Adventure Award for Lifetime Achievement. The Government of India’s Ministry of Youth Affairs and Sports records him among the recipients for the 2005 awards, which were presented on 29 August 2006.
11. Legacy and Influence
Nawang Gombu left a lasting legacy in Indian and Himalayan mountaineering.
His achievements helped demonstrate the extraordinary ability of Sherpa climbers and contributed to India’s emergence as a major mountaineering country.
His greatest institutional legacy was his long association with the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute. He was not simply a record-setting climber; he became a teacher and mentor who passed his practical knowledge to younger climbers.
The Himalayan Club remembered him as one of the pioneering Sherpa mountaineers who brought fame and prestige to the Himalayan climbing community.
His record as the first person to climb Everest twice made him a permanent figure in the history of Himalayan exploration.
12. Interesting Facts
- Nawang Gombu was the nephew of Tenzing Norgay.
- He was one of the youngest climbing Sherpas on the 1953 Everest expedition.
- He reached the South Col while carrying a heavy load during the 1953 expedition.
- He became the first person to climb Everest twice.
- His two Everest summits came just two years apart, in 1963 and 1965.
- In 1964, he became the first Indian to summit Nanda Devi.
- He was one of the first instructors of the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute.
- He later succeeded Tenzing Norgay as Director of Field Training at HMI.
- He met President John F. Kennedy at the White House after the 1963 Everest expedition.
- He received both the Padma Shri and Padma Bhushan in consecutive years, 1964 and 1965.
- He spent part of his later career teaching mountaineering techniques in the United States.
- He continued working for the welfare of the Sherpa community during his later years.
13. Quotes
Directly verified quotations by Nawang Gombu are relatively scarce in authoritative archival sources.
For this reason, a blog should not attribute popular motivational quotes to him without a primary source.
A frequently reproduced line online is:
“Preparation and perseverance are the keys to the summit.”
However, because a strong primary source for this exact quotation has not been established, it is better to label it “attributed to Nawang Gombu” rather than present it as a fully verified quotation.
A better documented statement about Gombu comes from his expedition leader, Mohan Singh Kohli, who described him as an outstanding climber and said that his death left a major void in India’s adventure field.
14. Timeline
| Year | Event |
| 1936 | Born in the Himalayan region of Tibet* |
| Early years | Spent part of his childhood in the Khumbu region of Nepal |
| Childhood | Briefly studied at Rongbuk Monastery |
| 1953 | Participated in the British Everest Expedition; reached the South Col |
| 1953 | Received the Himalayan Club’s Tiger Badge |
| 1954 | Became one of the early instructors associated with HMI |
| 1950s–1960s | Participated in several Himalayan expeditions |
| 1963 | Reached the summit of Everest with Jim Whittaker |
| 1963 | Associated with Hubbard Medal presentation at the White House |
| 1964 | Became first Indian to summit Nanda Devi |
| 1964 | Received Padma Shri |
| 1965 | Reached Everest summit for the second time with the Indian expedition |
| 1965 | Became first person to climb Everest twice |
| 1965 | Received Padma Bhushan |
| 1966 | Received Indian Mountaineering Foundation Gold Medal |
| 1967 | Received Arjuna Award |
| 1976 | Became Director of Field Training at HMI |
| 1970s–1990s | Continued mountaineering instruction and worked with climbing programmes in the United States |
| 1990s | Retired from active HMI service and continued as adviser |
| 2006 | Received Tenzing Norgay National Adventure Award for Lifetime Achievement |
| 2011 | Died in Darjeeling on 24 April |
*Birth year/date varies among sources; the current Britannica-linked record gives 1 May 1936.
15. References
Official and institutional sources
- Government of India – Padma Awards Database
Official record of Nawang Gombu’s 1965 Padma Bhushan in Sports. - Gazette of India – Padma Awards, 1965
Official notification listing Nawang Gombu as a member of the Indian Everest Expedition who received the Padma Bhushan. - Gazette of India – Padma Awards, 1964
Official notification listing Gombu as an instructor at the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute and Padma Shri recipient. - Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, Darjeeling
Institutional biography and record of Gombu’s climbing and teaching career. - The Himalayan Club
Memorial biography documenting his early life, expeditions, HMI career and honours. - John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum
Archival record of the 1963 Hubbard Medal presentation associated with the American Everest expedition. - Government of India – Ministry of Youth Affairs and Sports
Record of the Tenzing Norgay National Adventure Award for Lifetime Achievement presented to Gombu in 2006.
16. Related Personalities
Tenzing Norgay
Legendary Sherpa mountaineer and Nawang Gombu’s uncle. Tenzing reached the summit of Mount Everest with Sir Edmund Hillary in 1953 and later became the first Director of Field Training at HMI.
Jim Whittaker
American mountaineer who climbed Mount Everest with Nawang Gombu in 1963. Whittaker became the first American to reach the summit of Everest.
Captain M. S. Kohli
Leader of the successful 1965 Indian Everest Expedition in which Gombu reached the summit for the second time.
A. S. Cheema
Indian Army officer and mountaineer who reached the summit of Everest with Nawang Gombu in 1965.
Sonam Gyatso
Another member of the 1965 Indian Everest Expedition who received the Padma Bhushan in Sports that year.
Hari Pal Singh Ahluwalia
Indian mountaineer who was part of the 1965 Indian Everest Expedition and later became an important figure in Indian mountaineering.
17. Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Who was Nawang Gombu?
Nawang Gombu was a legendary Sherpa mountaineer and Indian climbing instructor who became the first person to summit Mount Everest twice.
When did Nawang Gombu climb Mount Everest?
He climbed Everest for the first time in 1963 and for the second time in 1965.
Who climbed Everest twice first?
Nawang Gombu was the first person to reach the summit of Mount Everest twice.
Who was Nawang Gombu’s uncle?
His uncle was Tenzing Norgay, one of the first two people to reach the summit of Mount Everest in 1953.
When did Nawang Gombu receive the Padma Bhushan?
He received the Padma Bhushan in 1965.
In which category did Nawang Gombu receive the Padma Bhushan?
The official Government of India Padma Awards database lists the award under Sports.
Did Nawang Gombu receive the Padma Shri?
Yes. He received the Padma Shri in 1964, one year before receiving the Padma Bhushan.
Was Nawang Gombu part of the 1953 Everest expedition?
Yes. He was one of the young Sherpa members of the 1953 British Everest expedition and reached the South Col while carrying loads.
What did Nawang Gombu do at the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute?
He was one of the institute’s early instructors and later served as Director of Field Training. He spent more than four decades associated with HMI.
What other mountain did Nawang Gombu climb?
In 1964, he became the first Indian to summit Nanda Devi. He also participated in expeditions involving Saser Kangri, Cho Oyu, Rathong and other Himalayan peaks.
When did Nawang Gombu die?
He died on 24 April 2011 in Darjeeling, West Bengal.
What was Nawang Gombu’s greatest achievement?
His greatest achievement was becoming the first person in the world to climb Mount Everest twice, in 1963 and 1965.
Conclusion
Nawang Gombu Sherpa occupies a special place in the history of Indian and Himalayan mountaineering. From his early experiences as a high-altitude Sherpa to his historic Everest ascents, he demonstrated extraordinary courage, endurance and technical skill.
His 1963 Everest ascent with Jim Whittaker and his 1965 ascent with the Indian Everest Expedition made him the first person to climb Everest twice. His achievements were recognised by the Government of India with the Padma Shri in 1964 and Padma Bhushan in 1965.
But Gombu’s importance goes beyond records. For more than four decades, he helped develop Indian mountaineering through the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, where he trained and inspired generations of climbers.
His life represents the meeting of Sherpa mountain knowledge, Indian mountaineering, international exploration and dedicated teaching. Nawang Gombu is therefore remembered not only as an Everest pioneer, but also as a mentor who helped build the future of Indian mountaineering.
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